Wednesday, October 31, 2012

The Deep South


           It was with a heavy heart that I left New Orleans, but eased my sorrow with the thought of Florida beaches and with the oath that I would return someday.  I drove all day through the legs of Alabama and Mississippi and spent the night on St. George Island in the Florida Panhandle.  Unfortunately, I shared my campsite with a rather rude raccoon that hissed at Charlie and I then stole the box of soup I had set out for our dinner!  So while it was off somewhere enjoying Organic Chipotle Sweet Potato Soup, I had a can of tuna on crackers and trail mix for supper…so not cool…
            Monday morning I went for a jog on the beach, which could only be described as pristine as I didn’t see another soul the entire time. I felt like I finally got my beach time because the waves were soft, the sand was clean and white, and broken seashells were strewn everywhere. Afterwards, Charlie and I set off for another long day of driving to Savannah, Georgia where we camped in a place called Skidaway Island State Park right outside of town. It was actually a really pretty place with maritime forest crowning all the campsites and I made us Cajun stuffed bell peppers in the fire for dinner. Yum!
            This was kind of a big event because as I turned north for Savannah I realized I was beginning my 3rd and final leg of my journey!  Well, we wandered Savannah for a bit the next day where Charlie chased a million squirrels in Forsyth Park, and I stopped for lunch at a cute little café called the Sentient Bean downtown.  This functionally hippie establishment is cash only, but serves up delightfully unique organic vegan and vegetarian dishes along with loose leaf tea, real fruit smoothies, and an easy breezy vibe.  If you’re ever in the area, stop in for their tofu curry salad.  I know it sounds odd, but it’s amazing. 
After lunch we loaded up and were off to Savannah’s sister city of Charleston, South Carolina!  We stayed at a place called James Island County Park (so many islands haha), which is a really neat campground on the outskirts of town.  It is an interesting place with hundreds of enormous permanent light up…things…all over the park.  It has miles of trails weaving through thick southern forest, and a dog park with a small dog area (under 25lbs) where Charlie made a friend.
Wednesday morning after a jog through the surrounding fairytale forest, Charlie and I headed to downtown Charleston for some excitement.  We wandered the entire historic district all the way to the tip of the peninsula and back.  We checked out Marion Square, Rainbow Row, and Market Street and naturally, I found a sweets shop near the water where I got two macaroons. I had She Crab Soup and hearty bread for lunch at a café called Saffron.
When we got back to camp we went for another walk around the park and I gave Charlie a much-needed bath, after which he dutifully rolled in the dirt. The only bummer about camping in the South is that everything is damp in the mornings because if the humidity.  Whenever I woke up I always felt like I’d been sleeping all night with a wet towel over my face. Gross!!  However, the people here are wonderful.  I shouldn’t be surprised, because according to my guidebook, Charleston has been voted “most well mannered city in the USA” for 11 years and counting!! Everyone says hello, and good morning and it’s all “yes ma’am” and “no sir” and “I like the fried okra if you please”.  It made me feel like a true Southern Belle, if even only for the day.  And yes, down here they really do say ‘yall, and they say it a lot.
After Charleston, Charlie and I headed North to Jacksonville North Carolina where some of my good friends live with their brand new baby girl.  I was pleasantly surprised to see that they live in the outskirts of town (aka the boonies) in a small cottage/farmhouse. It had a big yard for Charlie to play in and room for a garden out back. We ran around Friday and did some errands and lots and lots of laundry on my part.  The weather had been unbelievably cooperative practically my whole trip and until I got to Jacksonville it was just perfect. Sunny day after sunny day slightly breezy and warm in the evenings, so I should’ve known something was coming my way, and it did! The last three days in North Carolina were spent holed up on the couch with the fam watching movies and drinking tea, while Hurricane Sandy gave us what for.
Although our rain and wind was enough to keep us indoors, it was nothing compared to what they were facing farther north.  So when I left Jacksonville on Tuesday morning, Sandy and I had a little chat.  I told her she was really messing with my travel plans and if she could hurry and pass through, it would be much appreciated.  She said she would talk to the cold Nor’easter Winds and Full Moon and see what she could do.  I had just put new tries on Stella the day before so I was ready for a rainy drive to Richmond, Virginia but Sandy kept her word and I had an uneventful, almost sunny even, drive. 
I stopped in Raleigh to meet my ex-co-worker and fellow wanderlust traveler, Olivia, for lunch at the State Farmers Market where she was selling pumpkins!  She is moving for high season to Patagonia, Chile to be a su-chef at a resort.  You go girl!  I enjoyed my final true southern meal of BBQ pork, fried green tomatoes, and peach cobbler while we chatted about all the places we want to see and our upcoming life plans.  The food was delicious while the talk inspiring and I set off for Virginia excited to leave the south and get enter the New England area!

P.S. My thoughts and prayers go out to all my friends and family who did get thrashed by Sandy.  Hang in there! The whole country is pulling for ya! Stay safe and let me know if I can do anything for anyone I am coming to see in that part of the country. :D

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